Surf
When the weather patterns and forced unemployment align!
I’ve got to give some level of thanks to Corona Virus. Forcing us all to down tools at a time when the weather systems have been blasting our coastline with great waves and weather. Nothing to do but enjoy and document.
This winter on the Gold Coast has been one of the best I can remember.
Relentless East and South-East swells, coupled with offshore winds and perfect sand banks has meant one of the most consistent winters I can remember here in South-East Queensland. Here’s a particular session from South Stradbroke Island.
Summer in south-west France! Is there anything better? 16 hours of sunlight, smiling faces, warm water, great food and good vibes.
Being based here for a few weeks armed with my camera gear has been a great opportunity to connect with a photograph some very cool people for various brands. When RVCA Europe hit us up to spend an evening with their local surf team, I jumped at the chance. The waves were horrendous but the smiles were still plastered on all faces and the crew danced on waves until the sun set around 10pm.
Throughout April & May I was based in the Mentawai Islands, a chain located 150 kilometers (93 miles) west of Sumatra, Indonesia, on the edge of the Ring of Fire. This was my fourth time here, and I’m continually taken back by the incredible waves, unspoiled islands, and beautiful culture of the local island people.
My reason for being there was to work as a surf-guide and photographer with a land-based camp called Pitstop Hill on the island of Pulau Masokut. My days revolved around assessing the surf conditions, taking guests to the most appropriate waves, navigating for boat drivers, snorkeling, fishing, and coordinating local village visits to build awareness of the communities in the area.
Visiting the local villages is a beautiful and humbling insight into the people and traditions that are so far removed from what we’re used to in the developed Western world. I remember walking back to our boat in a village called Malilimok while an elderly man was sitting in his doorway soaking up the afternoon sun, watching as a group of Bule (the Indonesian term for “Westerners”) roamed around his village. He had a friendly and welcoming appearance, and he was more than happy to have his photograph taken. To me, the contentment and peaceful nature exuding from this man struck me as though he’d lived a full, happy and healthy life by living closely with nature and reaffirmed that we do not need a lot in order to be happy.
